“So where to next?”

That’s a common question in the Smith house, especially as the days and weeks pass from the last time we unpacked our suitcases.

With Labor Day and a perfectly good three-day travel weekend coming up, that sounded like the best time for our next adventure. We looked at several cities for a quick getaway, but we knew we wanted to go somewhere we could drive to in a day, since we were taking our furry children with us. After perusing the map, we settled on New Orleans, because it’s very dog-friendly and also because we’ve both been there before. Having already been to New Orleans separately, we figured we’d have to worry less about figuring out the lay of the land so we could spend more time eating, which, let’s be honest, is what it’s all about.

We headed out for the Big Easy Friday afternoon and got in around midnight. Our hotel was located between the French Quarter and the Business District, so we were able to walk to nearly everything while still being far enough away from the crazy that is Bourbon Street. There was even a cute little outside atrium about a block from our hotel where the dogs could do their business. Frank thought this was fantastic. Honestly, Frank thought everything about New Orleans was fantastic. I’m pretty sure they’re going to give him a key to the city at some point.

Our first day, we woke up early so we could head down to Jackson Square with the pups. We wanted to go before the heat of the day so they wouldn’t get too tuckered out, and we figured there would be fewer people around. Frank is really good when he’s in public and loves the attention, but our poor little Gracie has a bit of social anxiety so we didn’t want her to stress out too much. They did great on the ride down and really loved the hotel. Frank is okay with anywhere that puts lots of pillows on the bed, and Gracie liked looking out our hotel window at the city below. She’s our little guard dog.

Our original plan was to stop by Café Du Monde for the world-famous beignets and coffee, but when we got to Jackson Square, the line to get in went down Decatur Street. Since Allen and I had both been there before, we decided not to wait. For the Smiths, it’s rare that we’ll wait in line to eat anywhere no matter how delicious the food. We walked around Jackson Square and St. Louis Cathedral for a bit before ducking into Pierre Maspero’s restaurant for a bite — a totally awesome culinary decision on our part. Allen ordered a mint julep and I had a Cajun Bloody Mary to start things off. We also ordered crawfish beignets for an appetizer, which pretty much ended up being the best thing I ate on our trip — and that’s saying a lot because all of the food was delicious. If you leave New Orleans hungry, it’s your own darn fault. After we polished off our beignet app, and by “polished off,” I mean “licked the plate,” we each ordered an entree that was original to New Orleans. Allen got a sampler that consisted of gumbo, jambalaya, and étouffée. I opted for the red beans and rice, and it was really tasty and just spicy enough.

With our tummies full and happy, we continued our trek through the French Quarter, checking out the shops and bakeries and just taking it all in. I absolutely adore the architecture in New Orleans, and I love how heavy cast iron fences and rails are somehow made softer by all of the greenery and brightly colored flowers. I also love doors, so I enjoyed seeing all of the different kinds, usually against beautiful brick or boldly painted walls. We walked along the Mississippi River and watched the riverboats docking while listening to various street musicians playing jazz along the banks. I mean they were literally playing jazz with saxophones and whatnot. This is not a metaphor.

Later on in the afternoon, we stopped at a place called Backspace Bar based solely on the sign’s font because we’re both writers and that’s what we do. Another great decision. It was definitely a Becky and Allen kind of place — the entire bar was made of rich wooden tables, and old typewriters and books lined the shelves. So basically it was the library at our house. We were particularly amused by a sign above our table that read “Mr. Frank.” It’s like New Orleans knew he was coming. (See also: King of Mardi Gras.)

Our bartender at Backspace Bar was super sweet, and we asked her to make us some authentic New Orleans spirits. She whipped me up the most delicious Hurricane — the good kind of hurricane — and she made Allen a Sazerac, which is a combination of cognac or rye whiskey, absinthe, and Peychaud’s Bitters. After our late afternoon cocktails, we headed over to Lafayette Square near our hotel. The pups really liked Lafayette Square because it wasn’t as crowded and they could run around in the grassy area without hearing traffic horns and other random noises. I think this was Grace’s favorite spot in the city.

For dinner we decided that we had to have Po-Boys. We stopped at a place called Huck Finn’s, and I had a shrimp version while Allen opted for a fried oyster one. I have to say I don’t think New Orleans has any bad food, because our sandwiches were delicious. After dinner, we walked around the city a bit more and down Bourbon Street before calling it a night. Bourbon Street is crazy. Total crazy.

After all of the walking, eating, and imbibing, I think all four of us passed out the moment our heads hit the pillow. Or pillows in Frank’s case. Big dogs need lots of pillows.

When we woke up the next morning we decided to get out of the French Quarter for the day and head over to the Garden District. Armed with lots of water, our travel doggie cup, and plenty of puppy poop bags, we hopped in the car and headed that way. I must digress for a minute to love on doggie travel cups. They’re so convenient and pretty much the greatest invention ever. They’re perfect for the dog on the go who needs to say hydrated. Frank and Grace adore their cup. Now back to my story.

The Garden District is definitely a site to see. With all of the historic homes and tree-lined streets, it’s such a beautiful walk. Our first stop was Lafayette Cemetery No. 1, one of New Orleans’ oldest above-ground cemeteries. I’m so intrigued by New Orleans cemeteries and the history — it’s almost like time stands still when you walk through them. Even on the warmest, sunniest day, it gives you chills. I was really taken by all of the flowers in front of the old graves — something about the contrast between life and death. Or maybe it was just the pops of color against the otherwise bleak gray stones. Either way, it prompted me to keep my shutter clicking.

After the cemetery, we stopped by a little Cajun cafe for some lunch. I had the vegetarian jambalaya and Allen had red beans and rice. Frank and Grace had some ice water and carrots from my jambalaya. Frank also tried to drink some of my coffee. Such a city dog. He sat on my lap and Grace perched under my chair so they could do some people-watching and also protect our table from the people moving out of their apartment above us. We enjoyed our Garden District afternoon and then headed back to our part of town.

For dinner, we chose Chartres House so we could sit out on the cast-iron patio and do a little people-watching as the sun set. I had bread pudding for dinner and I’m not even sorry. Was it the best decision I made this trip? Quite possibly. After dinner, it was dark so we walked around the city at night, enjoying the bright lights, friendly people, and the faint sound of jazz drifting through the air.

We headed back to the hotel happy, content, and exhausted. The next day we headed home, but the trip was definitely amazing and a much-needed break. And I’m totally still dreaming about those crawfish beignets.